Darwin to Kupang

"Attitude is the difference between ordeal and adventure" - Bob Bitchin

As part of Sail Indonesia, we departed Darwin at 0400 on the 22nd heading for Kupang. That was when the tide was leaving so we didn't see the point of fighting it at the nominated time, just to suit the media.

We had anti-fouled at Spot On Marine, gas cylinders, fuel and water were bunkered and the pantry was well-stocked. 

A well-stocked pantry

Our Navman Wind Indicator, installed new in 2004, has never been accurate, so we used a hand held or let the sails dictate. Not that it matters; a particular phenomenon afflicting all cruisers, is that the wind will always come from the direction in which you wish to go.

Where two currents collide in the Timor Sea

You will smell the cattle carriers first

The sunsets only become more spectacular

Arrival at Kupang

May all your bars be wooden and well-stocked!

Wyndham

"Not all who wander are lost." - JRR Tolkien

Wyndham is the oldest and northernmost town in the Kimberley. Wyndham Port is situated at the bottom of Cambridge Gulf. There are a number of rivers flowing into this Gulf and the sailing can be interesting and frightening! Spring tidal ranges of up to 12m roar through here and the eddies will turn your vessel 180 degrees.

We first sailed here many years ago following the route of Phillip Parker King as he surveyed the North of Australia. Marsden Horden's book "King of the Australian Coast' relives King's series of voyages from hazards of reefs, shoals and tides. King was the first to sail into the Gulf in 1819 (having traversed this Gulf on numerous trips, we can attest he was a very brave man indeed!)

Plan a voyage the old fashioned way

At this time, Wyndham had the cheapest fuel in Australia, and wonderful fresh produce from the Ord River District was available . We had previously become friends with the owners of the Wyndham pub, who kindly loaned their car for shopping and other provisioning.The Wyndham Town Hotel has the best fish and chips (and their famous Barra Burger) courtesy of the Kimberley.

Western Australia's most northern pub

The pub is a 2 minute walk from the pontoon. Tying your dinghy to the floating pontoon means keeping a close eye and not leaving it too long - rushing tides will sweep it under the pontoon. Wyndham also promotes the 'largest Boab in captivity', because it is fenced off.

Largest Boab in captivity! (note the fence)

Check out the link to Wyndham; it is really a fascinating part of Australian history and well worth a visit (yes you can drive here).

The cruise back to Darwin saw Tientos reach a heady 9 knots through the Peron Islands!  Those tides are good for something. 

May all your bars be wooden and well-stocked!